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Showing posts with label Cansaulim. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cansaulim. Show all posts

Saturday, January 2, 2016

The last Beach Shack in South Goa


It's time to take a little walk, I thought. Let me head North of Arossim, and figure out what's going on up there. It was a comfortable, lazy afternoon and I felt I needed the exercise before starting to figure out what the next meal is going to be made of. So I set off, armed with a bottle of water. 

The beach stretches away towards the cliff and further on to Dabolim airport. No evidence of commercial tourism beyond about half kilometer of the Park Hyatt. No water sports, no beach shacks. 

Local visitors were in plenty that Saturday evening, most having come in from interior parts of Goa near the areas that border the neighbouring state of Maharashtra. This group of kids said that a visit to the sea side is a rare occasion for them.  


While the months of December and January are certainly cooler than the rest of the year, some visitors find the going rather rough, and need to wear a hooded top to protect themselves from the 25 degrees C breeze.  

Little kids race by the edge of the water, with elders playing referee. Wagers, anyone? 

About 3.5 km north of Park Hyatt I finally reach what appears to be the last beach shack on that stretch. I step inside to buy a bottle of water. 


The look of the beach changes north of this point, with fishing boats dotting the area, and nothing much else until you reach the cliffs ahead. The industrial complex of Zuari Agrochemicals is visible further ahead. 


The area between Arossim and Cansaulim is home to several clusters of fisher folks homes. Several huts and several fishing boats. 


This boat appears all set to set out to sea, with the owner appearing to make last minute checks. Fishing nets have been dried, and rolled up carefully making a pile in the boat. 


A long, empty stretch of beach appears before the next bunch of shacks and people appear at Arossim further south. 

Fishing boats are parked all along the beach. 


Some boats appear ready to sail - nets, oars and baskets are all getting loaded.


The evening sea was calm as a bird flew around, probably looking for fish. I estimated that I have about a kilometer or so to reach Arossim, and another kilometer to reach Utorda, which was my target that evening. 


Here we are, back to Arossim, with the sunbeds and shelters of Park Hyatt visible in the distance and a few shacks.


A group of fishermen that has just arrived appear to be discussing the day's catch as their nets get laid out on the sand to dry. Next step is inspection and repair. The crows in the area have probably managed to steal a few small fish from the nets.   


Further south, the family waits in Utorda, lost in thought. It's time to catch the last rays of the sun, and watch the beach life of humans slow down and stop for the night. 


It's been a quick walk, about 8 km and 2 hours, up to what appears to be the last beach shack in the northern end of South Goa. 

Maybe I need to walk further ahead next time, up to the area closer to the Zuari Agrochemicals plant that is brightly lit up at night.  

The 'Old and Evil man' representing 2015 has been blown away to welcome the fresh, new 2016. May I wish all of you a wonderful year ahead. 

Thank you for joining me for my pleasant walk in the initially bright afternoon that slowly changed into the gentle glow of the afternoon sun. Until next time, then!



All the posts in this series:





5. The last Beach Shack in South Goa


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Saturday, December 28, 2013

Three cheers for the fishermen of Goa!


Many of us visitors from far and near love visiting Goa, for the people, beaches, shacks, scenes and food. 




A significant attraction is the variety of seafood. The humble fishermen in their traditional boats have an effective season of about 7 or 8 months. They brave the winds and rough seas, spending many hours at sea, often in the dead of night, month after month. 




I thought I would take a quick look at their boats and related equipment that they use to get us the food that we have come to love. The nets are very fine and complex. Fishermen spend a lot of their 'downtime' fixing boats and nets.





Boats come in several sizes.




A majority of them appear rather frail.




Wonder when the commonly seen design got established. How many centuries or how many thousand years ago was that?




Being protective in nature, the oil extracted from the Cashew plant is commonly used to paint boats. 




This boat seems to have dropped anchor in the sand!




Long, early morning shadow of a fishing boat and oars on the fine sand.




The outrigger made of wood and tied up with various types of ropes helps stabilize the little boats. 





Well loaded with nets neatly folded, this boat seems ready to set sail any moment.




Formula 1 chequered flag boat, baskets neatly piled up by the side.




Fishermen wash the baskets in the sea.




Another boat, another view. 




This is how boats are 'parked'. 




Fishing nets laid out to dry, and perhaps repaired before the next trip out.




A little dog appeared suddenly, tail wagging furiously, at the same time barking high pitched and excited, appeared to be a little scared. 




That's as far as I wandered, to the village of Velsao, about 4 km from Arossim. Time to head back about 4 km.





According to the map, the beach leads to Bogmalo, a few km away. Need to try that next time! My father-in-law was the Manager of Dabolim Airport during the handover from the Portugese. He said they used to clamber down from the airport down to the sea for a swim. Do you think the reverse may still work? He also has incredible anecdotes to tell us about the simplicity and honesty of the Goan people. 




The life guard shelter waits for the life guards to arrive. 



Hello, anyone home?




The high tide has left behind interesting sand formations. 




On the way back, I see that visitors have arrived by now, towel placed neatly in the shadow of the umbrella. 




A beach dog waits for the lifeguard to arrive.




A life guard shows up at about 9:30 AM.




So do a few walkers. The stretch around Cansaulim is very quiet, with about three or four beach shacks.




The little 'cheep-cheep' bird pokes around in the wet sand. They are generally too quick to photograph.




The 'Dolphin Tour' boat seems to have been washed. 




The Jet Ski are getting ready for riders to come by. 





The water sports crew and life guards share the same shelter. 



The beach shacks in the area open up for business by about 9:30 AM. 



The menus in shacks and restaurants include the seafood that the hard working fishermen in their hand crafted boats bring for us.



Many fishermen are concerned about the proliferation of large, mechanized, powerful trawlers that don't leave much fish for them. The trawlers can also brave rough seas far better than the little boats can. Faced by severe challenges, the art of fishing in traditional boats may find fewer and fewer takers in future. 

Similar views were expressed by fishermen in South Maharashtra, where I traveled to last July. 

Thank you for joining me on my little early morning walk around Cansaulim.

Three cheers for the fishermen of Goa (and other states)!

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