Hampi memories 6 - Royal Enclosure

The Royal Enclosure in Hampi housed several Palaces, Audience Halls, Places of Worship, Baths and Gardens during the days of the Vijayanagar Empire. Over forty buildings, according to historians. As you enter the complex which used to be double walled, the first thought seems to strike you is "Well, what's happening, there doesn't seem to be much going on here".

Sadly, the first thought is quite right. The Royal Enclosure was the nerve centre of the Vijayanagar Empire about 600 years ago, particularly when their most powerful king Krishnadeva Raya ruled from 1509 to 1529 AD (Source: Wikipedia). Today, the silence is almost eerie. As you start looking around and walking around, some of it begins to sink in. Foundations of buildings. Rubble. Looking at the foundations, you may even tend to believe that construction is probably about to begin.

It takes several minutes to gather ones bearings and senses. After surveying the ruins, you would probably start walking around, all the time wondering where to begin. In fact,it took us two visits to come to grips with the ruins. 

A rather remarkable feature is the presence of many tanks or baths. Some historians have concluded that there were 23 baths, used by the Royalty and the public. Far in the distance, a relatively tall structure seems to be standing.

Turns out that the tall structure is the Mahanavami Dibba. I'll let you read the details below.

That means quite a number of steep steps to climb. Let's go!

Whoa..!! Junior seems to be thinking "I don't believe the view." How far dis you say the Royal Enclosure stretch? And how many buildings were there? 

Hello, come on up, you get a whole new perspective,quite like a bird's eye view.

Ruins of Royal Buildings and Walls...

Several Baths...

Well, one part of the garden is well manicured. Looking across, you notice a long, bridge like structure running across parts of the enclosure.

It's worth a closer look. That's part of the system of aqueducts that were used to carry water to different parts of the kingdom, from the many reservoirs that had been constructed.

Reports say that the Stepped Tank was discovered by an engineer from the Archaeological Survey of India in the 1980s, who observed that one aqueduct seemed to be ending over a patch of land. 

Curiously, the sides of the tank measure 22 metres while the depth is 7 metres.

The panels along the lower tiers of the Mahanavami Dibba tell hundreds of stories, about the Royalty, Worship, Armies, Animals, Ceremonies and from Mythology. 

The damage is evident, the destruction of such lovely works of art.

After the two trips to the Royal Enclosure, a little break is needed, to reflect and capture our breadth.

Outside the Royal Enclosure lies the remains of a huge pairs of doors, carved out of stone, with what seems to be a hinge kind of mechanism. The double walls and doors were not adequate to keep the attackers away.

You may be interested in:

1. Virupaksha Temple, Bazaar, Hemakuta Hill and Monolith Ganeshas

2. Krishna Temple and Bazaar

3. Two monoliths, Two sisters and an Underground temple

4. Around the Royal Enclosure

5. Hazara Rama Temple

6. Royal Enclosure

7. Vittala Temple and a trek by the River

8. Pattabhirama Temple, Reservoirs and Sunsets

9. Travel, Stay, Food, Transport and a few closing Thoughts

-=-= 

Hampi memories 5 - Hazara Rama Temple

The Hazara Rama temple is located within the Royal area, and deserves special mention, though it is not a particularly large temple. First, the name of the Temple. It does strike you that it is somewhat unusual. Are there 1000 carvings or 1000 statues? The name seems to be a 'fusion' name. Oh well. Dedicated to Vishnu, the temple was a private one, meant for the Royals. The sculptures on the walls, inside and outside the main temple, are absolutely exquisite.  The entrance leads in through a small entrance hall.

A group of school kids had turned  up. At least these kids are being introduced to Hampi, unlike in  the past. I do hope that they come back one day, to appreciate the significance of the Vijayanagar Empire.

Beautiful carvings dot every panel.

Not only every panel on the wall, but every pillar, as well. 

Some of the pillars are polished, quite unique, not seen in all temples. Scores of pillars, three or four or five panels per face, four faces per pillar... even many of the ceilings are carved.

Admiring the panels and sculptures has tired us out, in spite of the 'tender coconut' water. Try to imagine the skill and the dedication of the artisans who sculpted them all, some of the work being executed on monolithic statues that we saw earlier. Whew..!!

View of a couple of the polished, sculpted, stone pillars.

The photographer and the photographed, in one of the interior chambers. 

A view of the multi-pillared dance hall.

Stories of the Ramayana on the exterior walls of the main chambers.

The detail on one of the panels.... there are hundreds such, no, thousands.

Where the pillars meet the ceiling...

Hundreds of long panels depict mythological stories on the outside walls.

The ancient script, looks suspiciously familiar, quite like the Kannada or Telugu script of today.

Each panels outside is heavily ornamented, as well. Notice the ornamental 'drainage pipe' on the lower right side of the photo.

The area opposite  the main entrance of the Hazara Rama Temple was known as the Pan - Supari Bazaar. 'Pan - Supari' means 'Betel Leaf - Areca Nut'. The area beyond the flag pole leads to the Bazaar, another indication of the fame and wealth of the traders of the Vijayanagar Empire.

You may be interested in:

1. Virupaksha Temple, Bazaar, Hemakuta Hill and Monolith Ganeshas

2. Krishna Temple and Bazaar

3. Two monoliths, Two sisters and an Underground temple

4. Around the Royal Enclosure

5. Hazara Rama Temple

6. Royal Enclosure

7. Vittala Temple and a trek by the River

8. Pattabhirama Temple, Reservoirs and Sunsets

9. Travel, Stay, Food, Transport and a few closing Thoughts

-=-= 

Hampi memories 4 - Around the Royal Enclosure

The architecture changes distinctly in the area approaching the Royal Enclosure. This area is known as the Islamic quarter, where you would have found homes, religious structures, tombs and other buildings used by the Mulsim officers and troops of the Vijayanagar army.

Stairways are typically steep and dark, and worn smooth, so need some effort and care to climb up and down. 

The area is excellent for photography once you reach the  vantage points high up,which our graphic designer nephew enjoyed immensely. And in case you have forgotten, Junior had got irreversibly hooked to Hampi, by then. Didn't take him too long. 

The ruins of the Islamic Quarter are extensive, stretching many miles. Those of you travelling with kids, all you need to do is to hand them a camera. And you can then sit back and watch their History and Geography grades climb North! 

Excuse me! Time for a refreshing and absolutely essential 'Tender Coconut' water. Just what the doctor ordered.

The Zenena Enclosure area has a few interesting buildings. A quick look at the Treasury, after which we came upon the rather interesting Lotus Mahal, also known as the Kamal Mahal or the Chitragani Mahal, built with fusion Indo-Islamic architecture in mind.  The Lotus Mahal of the 16th century had significant substance in its architecture, built of lime and mortar, it is reported to have been an air-cooled building, cooled by a combination of water fed under the building and large fans within. 

The two-storied building was a non-religions building, probably a resting place for Queens and others similarly privileged. The arches are finely designed.

The remains of a large building stands opposite, of which only the three-tiered base remains, an indicator of importance. The structure on top of the base was probably built of wood, which would explain the state of the building today. Historians tell us that this was a palace for the Queens.

Yet another well known building within the Zenena Enclosure is the Elephants' Stables. Fusion architecture, very large structure.

There are domes of different sizes and shapes on the building. 

 Now you get an idea of the size of the doorways, fit for the Royal Elephants to walk in and out of.

The Noblemens' Quarters are located next to the Elephants stable. 

The Noblemens' Quarters have been converted into a museum of sorts. 

I paid my respects to, in my humble opinion, the 'National Animal' of the destroyed and devastated Vijayanagar Empire. The gentle elephants with missing trunk and tusks. Oh, thousands of  them.

Ruins of a watch tower silently stand guard.

Near the Elephants' Stable is the lovely little Ranga Temple, dedicated to Vishnu and Lashmi. However, only a giant Hanuman statue remains. Looks like the attackers missed vanquishing this slab of stone. Not much remains of the rest of  the temple.

There is another interesting building around the Royal Enclosure area. Today, It is known as the Queen's Bath.  Square in shape, a verandah running all around, and an open space for water. A giant bath tub it was!

Notice the delicately designed spouts through which water filled the bath tub, fed no doubt by the extensive system of canals and channels.

The Queen's Bath looks like a simple structure from the outside. Sorry, mate, no water in there, it's bone dry these days.

Our auto-rickshaw driver suddenly pulled up by the roadside, without a word. My thought was that Nature had called, but then he turned around and mysteriously beckoned us to follow him. He then pointed down towards the bushes. This was where the troops were fed, he said.

Aaahhhaaa, all of us said, in unison,and looked at each other in wonder. So it was. Rows of plates and cups built out of stone, practical, environmentally friendly, and effort friendly, as well. What an idea! 

Another stop by the unsigned roads was at a building that appeared to be an Octagonal Bath. Octagonal because of the shape, Bath because it looked like another giant bath tub, with a verandah all around. Wikipedia seems to agree. This bath tub was probably meant for the common folks, maybe.

Unsigned and lonely, the Octagonal Bath looked every bit as abandoned as the cycle that was parked a little distance away,with no owner in sight. The rays of the setting sun rendered the scene even more poignant.

You may be interested in:

1. Virupaksha Temple, Bazaar, Hemakuta Hill and Monolith Ganeshas

2. Krishna Temple and Bazaar

3. Two monoliths, Two sisters and an Underground temple

4. Around the Royal Enclosure

5. Hazara Rama Temple

6. Royal Enclosure

7. Vittala Temple and a trek by the River

8. Pattabhirama Temple, Reservoirs and Sunsets

9. Travel, Stay, Food, Transport and a few closing Thoughts

 -=-=