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Sunday, April 6, 2014

A lake, a waterfall and an ancient Meitei temple



Among Manipur's attractions, the Loktak Lake is rated at the top. It is the largest freshwater lake in India, close to 300 square kilometres. The lake is covered in parts by vegetation. The vegetation is in reality a mass of plants, soil and decomposed plants that keeps shifting position. This is an extremely unique feature of Loktak Lake. So, the scenery today may be quite different from what you may experience next week.






The road winds along the lake, most of it not tarred. Life goes on. Children skip along to school. 






Residents use public transport to go from point to point. The vans are typically small and overcrowded. If you are lucky, you may find just enough room somewhere, either inside or outside the van.





Bridges link different parts of the lake which otherwise would have been inaccessible.





Boats are used as the mode of transport to reach the island in the centre of the lake.





Commuters get set to leave from the periphery to the interior parts of the lake.





Meanw
hile, a boat with its load of passengers is about to reach. It's a sunny day, isn't it? That's what the umbrellas seem to indicate.




Passengers disembark, and make their way inland.





Commuters travelling in in the reverse direction prepare to clamber aboard the boats, with their varied luggage.




Oops, what do we have here?





Time to take a closer look. Turns out to be fish from the lake. Sweetwater, bony fish!




A family waits at the shelter nearby. A study in contrast. The lady dressed in traditionally woven Manipuri clothes, and the gentleman dressed casually in jeans. And a happy child in between.





The life is the centre of activity for the people that live around. A lady fishes using a line, while another lady washes household vessels.  The lake is the lifeblood of the population living around the lake.





Some fishermen continue to use traditional fishing baskets to catch fish. However, many more fish can be snared using the extensive system of nets laid out around the lake.




I got an opportunity to take a close look at a few boats nearby. Rather flimsy. Not surprisingly, my guide had advised me against taking a ride in one of these country boats.





The catch of the day is stored in enclosures until transportation is worked out.





Children wandering back home from school appear to be more interested in peering at a stream of water flowing under the road.






The Classic Hotel, Imphal's largest, is building a resort at the highest point in the centre of the lake. Can you imagine, a regular tourist attraction near Imphal? The view from up there is quite impressive.




My guide insists that he record my presence at the highest point. Say cheese..!!





Following lunch at a local 'rice hotel' in Bishenpur, we make our way over the plains and up the mountains, to our next destination, the well known Sadu Chiru waterfall.





Locals have set up entry fee collection points, the first as we cross the plains and start climbing, and the second at the parking lot by the waterfall. 






The waterfall is along way up from the parking lot. Many, many steps to climb. On and on. Happily, it's a good workout.






If not for the steps, it would have been a bit of a hard trek along unpaved paths. My guide informed me that treks are conducted that go up to heights much further up, along rough ground that needs regular climbing gear like ropes and harnesses. 



Wow, the water falls from way high, I thought, as I made my way over jagged rocks, wet from the spray of the water. 




A few local lads invite me for a photograph. They insist, clearly in high spirits. "Uncle, one photo", said one bloke. "Brother, one photo", yelled another, in their effort to welcome me to Manipur.




My conclusion about Indian tourism is: Gather a group of domestic tourists together and what do you get? A garbage heap! What is it in us Indians that make us so insensitive to the environment, other visitors and ultimately, our country? When will Indians learn to care for our present and our past heritage? Is there any hope? Realistically, probably not. After all, we are an ancient, spiritual and religious land. That gives us the license to be irresponsible and rude. As they say, "What to do, we are like that only!". 





Back at the parking lot, it's time to buy a cool drink and get set for our trip back to Imphal. A Chiru tribal lady sorts out greens. 





We visit an ancient temple on the way back. The Konthoujam Lairembi temple is of great significance to the Meitei people. It predates the arrival of Hinduism and other religions to Manipur.





The temple is closed most of the time, being used only during festive occasions. The courtyard is very well organized, with enclosures for musicians, senior citizens, ladies, and gentlemen.





The tree cover around the temple is remarkable, indeed.




Overall, about ten trees form a giant canopy.




Branches of trees seem to have fused into neighbouring trees.




The perplexing question is, to which tree does branch X belong to?



The snake like creature is an important symbol for the Meitei people of Manipur.  Two snakes lead the way to the gate at the back of the temple.




The snakes are represented as long boats.




The snake motif is found carved on the oar of the boats, as well.




The ancient Meitei temple, over 500 years old, has been renovated and continues to play a key part in Meitei life today.



The giant trees seem to have been witness to the centuries ticking by. The trees have grown gradually in age and height, and the branches have spread, all of which seems to be an effort to create a protective canopy overhead. 

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The posts in this series are listed below.




Saturday, April 5, 2014

Andro village - a glimpse of the past



Andro village is located about 25 km east of Imphal. The drive is picturesque, the road winding through mountains, fields and pineapple orchards. The paddy fields and pineapples, I was told, would be turned into a riot of colour after the rainy season. 




We stopped at a spot and scampered up an extremely steep slope. The view was impressive, in spite of being predominantly brown in April. 




Once we scampered up, I wondered how we reached there. The slope was probably about 40 degrees. Climbing down involved some effort to avoid slipping and sliding down the sleep slope. 




The pine trees presented a pretty sight on the way to Andro village. I wondered whether some deforestation may have affected the environment. 




As we approached Andro, this part part of the Imphal valley stretched out green, with a lot of activity in the fields, all fueled by the irrigation system.




The tribal inhabitants of Manipur used to worship the forces of Nature responsible for creation, represented by Fire. Lord Panam Ningthou is the deity of Andro Village. A Fire has been burning for ages, according to local legend, and must be kept going for ever and ever. Teams of villagers are assigned the sacred duty of tending to the sacred fire. Since photography is not allowed inside, one of the villagers came out and carefully closed the door. The temple is dark, cool and peaceful inside. In the centre, a small Fire burns. 







The Andro Heritage Complex has preserved the homes and crafts of several communities and tribes that have inhabited Manipur. 






The Meitei (or Meetei) community is considered quite advanced, their homes are solid in construction, and permanent in nature. 



Several varieties of pottery are on display in the complex. A unique feature (or process) is that Manipuri pottery is fashioned by hand, without the use of the 'potter's wheel'.




Most of the homes are mini-museums, displaying pottery, woven baskets, weapons, clothing and musical instruments. 




Some of the artefacts go back several centuries. 




A local distillery is on display, used by tribals to concoct a local brew by fermenting rice. This tradition still exists, as I was to see in a while.




Sharp instruments were used to create designs on the pottery. 




Baskets like these, woven from bamboo, were used by wealthier sections of society to store clothes and household items. 




Baskets like these are used even today to ctach fish in lakes and rivers. There are several interesting designs on display. 




A close-up of a fishing basket reveals an intricate design that traps fish once they get swept inside, and are prevented from escaping.




Raised platforms like these were used to store food, while a flame lit below would serve the purpose of preservation and slow cooking.




Woven baskets like these are used all across Manipur for carrying loads over large distances.




Before the advent of Hinduism and other religions, the Meitei people used to worship Fire, represented through objects like these.



Grass skirts used by tribals is on display, along with other objects used in daily life including cooking utensils, and spinning wheels. 




Bows and arrows were used for hunting human enemies as well as animals, for food. The 'string' of the bow is actually made of a thin yet resilient bamboo strip. It goes 'ttwwaanngg' as you pull and release it. The quiver is made of leather, decorated with patterns. 




This is the home of the Paomei people.




The motif reveals that this tribe used to be head hunters. The figures are seen standing, heads of slain enemies in hand. Further, the figures are shown standing on ground level, with several heads of killed enemies depicted as being buried under the ground, indicating the superiority of the Paomei.


Manipur was inhabited by a number of communities and tribes. Colourfully attired dolls on display in a neighbouring home reveal the range of clothes worn by the Manipuri people. 








The Kuki tribes were nomadic, their homes used to be flimsy, made of lightweight materials that could quickly be set up and dismantled as they wandered from place to place in search of greener pastures, literally speaking.





Some people, like the Meitei and others, were permanent settlers, as demonstrated by the materials used in the construction of their homes. Their homes were permanent. Every tribe had a different style of construction and designs. 








Manipuri people have traditionally been artistic and musical. The Manipuri dance form is one of the most well known forms of Indian Classical dance. Some of the homes in the complex demonstrate a number of stringed and percussion instruments, 







A sculpted Totem pole and Obelisk are seen at the centre of the complex. 








A tribal lady works quietly on small pieces of pottery. 






A view of the Andro Tourist Complex with several traditional homes in the background.




Yet another interesting experience in Andro Village is the ages old tradition of brewing a local drink made out of rice. The 'distillery' is almost the same as the one on display in one of the mini-museums, where the apparatus is several centuries old.





We arrived just in time to see a young tribal lady packing freshly brewed rice ale, still hot after the distillation process. 




The ladies showed me several pots of rice in various stages of fermentation. 




I had the privilege of sampling two lots of rice ale, in two stages of fermentation.





Be careful, Mr Fly, look before you leap. You aren't gong to last more than a split second should you decide to jump in.



Brewing rice ale is one of the professions in Andro village. The drink is very well known in Manipur. Here I am, with the two distillery experts, before we head back to Imphal. 




On the way back, we stopped for a few minutes at a spot to remember a young Doctor who had been attacked by a swarm of bees as he rode back home on his scooter. He did not survive the attack. 




Peering through the pine trees, I could see the Imphal valley stretching ahead. We would need to meander down the winding roads, back to the traffic and cacophony of Imphal.




Santhei Natural Park is a pretty lake not too far from Andro village. Being a holiday, the area was extremely crowded, being a popular picnic spot. Better avoided, I had thought, and made our way back to Imphal. 

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The posts in this series are listed below.